Cellar à Droit, or The Last Supper

By Rob Gregg

The dean had been most impressed with this trip and all that it had accomplished. The group had revealed hidden children in the Netherlands (Maud Dahme and Leo Ullman) in addition to Anne Frank; it had been through som(m)e trenches, and been on Omaha beach at Normandy; it had burrowed among the skeletal remains in the Catacombs; it had traced the early years of Dan Kochavi's life in wartime Paris; it had done all these things, and so much more, and its spirit had remained intact, even buoyant.

The dean determined, therefore, that team leaders Gail Rosenthal and Mike Hayse, who had throughout the tour (though not through Tours) run everything with the precision of a Swiss watch, should be given one last test (which now has included reading a complicated run-on sentence). This test was to put the group through a harrowing (i.e., not Etonian -- English joke) experience, to see whether they would survive as a unit and come through with a plomb and ma chérie (French joke). 

This group of 42 happy and expectant souls -- happy because they had accomplished so much, and expectant because every meal had previously been a veritable feast and celebration -- were to be herded into a bare cellar, which, if they were lucky, could just about contain everyone standing straight and to attention. How would they react? What would they do? Would they, like the lunatics performing the Marat/Sade, start rioting and bring destruction to the inSeine asylum? Would they, like the sans culottes of yore and the sans pain et cirque of today, start screaming liberation, liberation, revolution, revolution?  How would they respond when the restaurant owner started shouting from the kitchens, "Laissez-les manger du gâteau! Laissez-les manger du gâteau! Let les (words deleted by censor) Américains eat cake"? Only time would tell, the dean thought, and this would surely be an excellent test to determine whether the group deserved to consider itself one of the best Stockton University and Sara and Sam Schoffer Holocaust Resource Center Study Tours ever!

Very quickly everyone sprung into action. Tables and chairs were produced. A unit was sent above ground to forage (and essentially keep the restaurant owner on task). Gail, Mike, Sarah Albertson, Dorene Sellarole, and the indomitable Adam Szczucinski began cooking, ferrying, directing, and all the other action verbs in between, such that some order began to emerge. Meanwhile, with the cellar-dwellers beginning to chant Liberation, Maud decided that she would teach about European Reconciliation. In this case, this meant excising the E and R from liberation, and having the students demand Libation instead, which she duly provided to all of legal age and (now) sounder mind. Donald, the Baron von Scheer, announced that it had always been his life's dream to work in a French restaurant, and so he put on a bally good show as one of our waiters scurrying up and down the stairs. Soon the food was flowing in a bun dance, and fun was being had by all.





The professoriate needed to intervene at this point, so Herr (and his) Doktor Hayse and Madame La Professeur Rosenthal dropped the Mike by giving a wonderful tribute to all of the people on the trip who had made everything, including this last evening, come together so well. Presents and tributes were given to everyone. The students had come up with superlatives for every tour participant, "best this..." and "best that...", all of which were funny and somewhat accurate, besides the one that suggested that the dean "told the best dad jokes." As you can see from the foregoing account, the dean is a firm believer in "just providing the facts" and in serious reportage, so this characterization was a gross miscarriage...well, maybe not!

My thanks to everyone who came on this trip. It was a wonderful, deeply moving learning experience that we will all remember, I am sure, for the rest of our lives. Thanks to Gail, Mike, Adam, Maud, Dan & Jon, Sarah, Dorene, and all the now adopted students (both graduate and undergraduate), who all were so spectacular throughout the trip.

The Catacombs

By Julia Berlinger

The Remains of those in the Catacombs

Today we went down through the underground tunnels of Paris to explore the Catacombs. This was something I was really excited for going into the Study Tour. These underground tunnels are filled with the remains of more than six million people. The bones were taken from the cemeteries in Paris that were beginning to overflow. The first transfer of human remains was April 2nd, 1786. Remains were transferred from cemeteries to the underground tunnels over the course of two years. Our tour guide told us of ghost stories and how King Louis XVI had once traveled through the Catacombs. We followed the same black line on the ceiling that the king had followed out of the Catacombs. Our guide also told us of a Nazi bunker that was put in the underground tunnels once the Nazis heard of the resistance being underground. Walking through the Catacombs it was hard to believe that we were surrounded by over six million human remains. This was an experience that I will never forget and will hopefully be able to experience again.

Catholic Mass at Notre Dame Cathedral, Paris

By Alex Frame

The Notre Dame Mass service was incredibly moving  for me and the other students. When we walked into the service, it had already begun. Throughout the ceremony, you could hear the lay leader's voice echoing within the cathedral with an assist from a microphone as he orchestrated the mass. Hearing his voice and sitting with everyone in Notre Dame was an real bonding experience, everyone there was sharing a common cultural and spiritual moment in an awe-inspiring and historic setting. Even though the whole service was in French it was easy to follow and if you couldn't follow the people around you could help guide you. It was an experience of a lifetime.

Mémorial des Martyrs de la Deportation

By Carolyn Stefanu

Underneath the Notre Dame Cathedral

Built in 1962 by Charles de Gaulle, this memorial commemorates the 200,000 people who were deported from Vichy France. The memorial is located in Paris, France on the site of a former morgue, underground behind Notre Dame on Île de la Cité (city island). This "invisible" memorial is one that should be seen by all. As one enters the memorial, descending a narrow flight of stairs between massive stone blocks, the visitor experiences a sense foreboding claustrophobia and perhaps an echo of the small, cramped spaces that the deported endured. The lower level is open space but it is haunting nonetheless. The area is protected by an iron gate (reminiscent of prison bars) and above the gate hang seven metal bars with triangles pointed at the entrance to the interior of  the memorial. The claustrophobic feeling is repeated as you enter the exhibit between two large walls. The interior is simple and yet very powerful. An display of resistance letters and drawings from the deported struck a chord (although this part of the memorial was added more recently). It is a place for tears and quiet contemplation. Deep within the chamber on one wall was a map of France, marked with the number of deportees from each town. Wall murals were roughly painted. It gave a sense that the deportees drew them themselves so that we never forget who they were. We cannot forget the Martyrs of France, and this was an excellent way commemorate their memory. However, the memorial also reflects the time when it was originally designed. There is no differentiation between Jews, who were deported in the course of the genocide, and  other French citizens, who were deported for political reasons or a forced laborers for German industry and agriculture.

Notre Dame Cathedral

By Heather Hogrebe

Stockton students were able to to visit two Gothic cathedrals during this trip in France. The first cathedral is in Amiens. The cathedral in Amiens is slightly more grand in the sense that it had more ornamental detail with its gargoyles and sculptures. The Norte Dame Cathedral is smaller in size, but it is a central landmark for all tourists in Paris. One of the most noticeable pieces of the cathedral are the rose windows. One of them is thirteen and a half meters long, but they are all quite a sight to see. The flying buttresses and pointed arches are two features that are clearly gothic. Dr. Hayse was able to give lectures about Gothic architecture for both of the cathedrals to help us identify the similarities between the two.

Outside of the Notre Dame Cathedral

Inside, visitors are able to see different relief sculptures depicting different biblical references. The Norte Dame Cathedral has a variety of different stained-glass windows, which is a strong tourist attraction. Also inside, there is a model construction of the entire cathedral because from the outside, visitors cannot view it in its entirety. This is informative because it gives the visitor a more general view of the cathedral. A timeline of the cathedral's construction was also placed inside. It was interesting to see the development of the cathedral because it indicates which additions came first and which ones came later.

Inside of the Notre Dame Cathedral

A nice surprise about the Notre Dame Cathedral came from one of our tour guides during our walking tour of Paris. She said that the Norte Dame cathedral previously had sandbags surrounding it. This was to prevent and protect the cathedral from bombs and raids during the war. However, Nazis during WWII used it as a club, which is shocking, but interesting to learn. It was nice to make another connection between the core purpose of the tour and one of the main tourist sites. Overall, it was a beautiful day that was full of learning and adventure.

Walking Through Dan's Story

By Chelsea Regan

Early this morning we packed our bags on to the bus and said au revoir to our beloved Caen to head to Paris. While our early mornings on the bus generally consist of snoozing students, our trip to Paris was quite the opposite. We were honored to have the privilege of hearing Dan Kochavi, a Holocaust survivor’s, story. It is important to note that while many survivors openly share their story, there are still many who have not spoken publicly about their own and their family’s experience during WWII and the Holocaust. Dan Kochavi and his family's story is just now coming to light, largely due to a project to which Study Tour leader Michael Hayse and several students on the tour have contributed. This special project is a collective memoir, which tells the history of not only Dan, but also his family.

On the Balcony of Dan's old apartment

While telling his story, Dan informed us that although he was born and raised in France, his mother, Judith, was actually from Lithuania, and his father, Israel, was from Poland. Dan and Dr. Hayse told us about Judith and Israel’s courtship. One particular anecdote gave us a taste of Judith’s vivacious nature, which would stay with her throughout the German occupation of France. When Israel met Judith he was currently engaged. However, the engagement ended and he knew he had to travel to Paris, where Judith was living, to get his girl. After a courtship the couple -- both ardent Zionists --  agreed to move to Palestine, where they planned to marry. Judith and Israel traveled on separate ships. On Judith’s ship, several men tried to win her over. One was a butcher who explained to her that they could live a good simple life together and even proposed to her! Dr. Hayse commented on how she would play coy to evoke jealousy in Israel, as Dan chuckled while remembering his parents.

Sometime after their marriage Judith became pregnant with Dan and the soon-to-be family moved back to France. Judith worked in the kitchen of a Jewish vocational school called the ORT, since she was familiar with kosher rules and Orthodox traditions. Israel was also able to gain employment at this school and they both lived in an apartment above it in the same building (7, Rue Georges Lardennois). It was from this apartment in December 1940, that French police officers followed Israel home at 8 AM and demanded that they pack their things and come with them. Judith fought with the police because Dan, then a toddler, was sick and there was no possible way for her to be ready in the short time they gave her. However, despite her cheeky persistence they were still forced to pack up. The Kochavis were arrested, however, it is important to note that they were not arrested as Jews, but as "enemy nationals" as they bore identification papers from British-ruled Palestine.

At the doors of the old ORT school where Dan lived

The story of the Kochavis from here takes many twists and turns, which can be read about in the Kochavi memoir that is close to the final stage of publication. For the rest of this post I will be not diving further into the Kochavi’s history, but into our tour of the 19th Arrondissement with Dan, specifically our trip to Rue Georges Lardennois, the street on which Dan’s family lived, worked, and were arrested. As we arrived to the building where Dan lived before and after the war, he remembered playing on the balcony, as well as, the places where all of his friends had lived. For Dan, being so young when the Holocaust happened he does not remember much of the anti-Semitism that existed or the hardship of this time in his life. He can recall being called a ‘dirty Jew’ once (Dan acknowledges that his parents had a different experience and most likely a harder time), yet he can still recall many fond memories from his childhood home. As he stood outside to take a few pictures, a wonderful thing occurred; the door was opened and a man began to speak to Dan. After a short conversation Dan Kochavi, his son Jon, Dr. Hayse, and the students who are working on the memoir were able to enter the building and take a trip up to the balcony where Dan used to play.

While this group was inside of the building, we excitedly waited for them to reemerge and I could not help but think of my own childhood home, and how now so many years later it would probably look very different. Even with differences it must be an amazing feeling to be back in a place that you once knew so well. This feeling was very apparent on Dan’s face as he emerged on to the balcony followed by the others. He looked down and waved at us as, his face aglow with joy. Dan and the others spent quite a bit of time on the balcony, with the man who let them in. (It can be assumed there will be an exciting new chapter added to the memoir after this incredible experience.)

When the group came down to rejoin us, we learned that the building is now the headquarters and administrative offices of the ACAT, Association of Christians Against Torture. Here, people help victims of war and torture, many of them refugees, find their way and provide a safe space. Dr. Hayse commented on how appropriate it is that a place that once taught Jews technical skills that they were prohibited from learning, is helping people still today.

As we began to walk away from this building Dan commented on how memory is very strange – everything changes with time, and things become much smaller than they were in your childhood memories, but still they remain in the world. In a world where many Holocaust survivors are passing away, it is more important than ever to recount their stories, become witness to the crimes committed against them, and honor their lives, their families, and their memory, which through new eyes and minds shall never fade.

American Airborne Museum

By Jennie Meltzer

Today, the study tour group traveled to the Airborne Museum in Saints Mère Èglise. It is dedicated to the history of the American D-day attack on Normandy beach. The museum stands over the site where the famous house that is depicted burning to the ground in the movie “The Longest Day” once stood. It is owned and operated by the American government and is composed of three different exhibits. Each exhibit discusses a different operation and features a different WWII American aircraft. Each year on June 6, a huge ceremony is held on the property to commemorate the battle, those lost in the attack, and those who had to live with the memories of one of the bloodiest days in American history.

The Normandy American Cemetery

By Ashlee Ciccone and Renee Carfagno

Visiting the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial was an emotional and empowering experience to say the least. It was interesting to find out that the American government, and tax payers, pay to maintain the grounds on all American cemeteries. The Italian marble crosses or Stars of David that represent lost soldiers, or those that represent unknown soldiers were lined up in such a way that no matter which direction you were looking, a perfect line can be seen (similar to Brittany and Flanders Field American Cemetery in Belgium). Something that was particularly striking was the fact that all of the unknown soldiers were buried with crosses, and none with Stars of David. Is it possible that some of the unknown soldiers were Jewish?

Grave Sites at the American Cemetery in Normandy

Each Stockton student received an American flag to place at the grave of their choice. A photo was taken of some, which will be used for a future project. It was also interesting to find out that only three African American soldiers are buried there, two males, and one female. Theodore Roosevelt Jr. is also buried there, his cross decorated with gold lettering to represent his award of the Medal of Honor, and his brother is buried next to him. We also found out that American film, Saving Private Ryan is loosely based on the lives of the real Niland brothers, two of whom are buried next to each other at the cemetery.

At the end of the day, we reflected after the flag lowering ceremony. I think it is safe to say, we all felt proud to be American at that moment, despite the troubled times were are having politically at home.

Who said you can never go home again? Dinner with locals in Caen, France

By Michael Hayse

For me our stay in Normandy was not only about the history of the war; it was also a personal return. On the Tuesday evening when we arrived in Normandy, we were joined by several guests who mean a lot to me. My travels abroad, and thus my interest in European history, languages, and culture really began when I was a 16-year-old high school exchange student in Normandy. It was a sister city exchange between my home town of Lexington, Kentucky and Deauville, France, a city in Normandy jus a short distance up the English Channel from our study tour hotel in Caen. From the very beginning, as Gail Rosenthal and I began to organize the study tour, I was determined to see my old host family again. It has been 39 years since I lived with the Rollet family while attending the lycée (high school) in Deauville. I had last paid them a visit in 1982, when I was a college student studying in Berlin, Germany – 35 years ago!

It was therefore a great pleasure that my former host parents, Monique and Lucien (“Lulu”) and my host sister, Catherine were able to join us. Catherine’s partner Reynaud and their 13-year-old daughter Lucie accompanied them. My former host brother, Pascal, could not join us because he is now a professor of French in Wisconsin, and my other host sister, Caroline, lives too far from Caen. Monique stressed that she is still my mère française (French mother), and Lucie, whom I was meeting for the first time, played us some tunes on the piano. Sharing this wonderful reunion with my study tour “family” made the evening doubly meaningful for me.

Memorial De Caen Museum

By Richard Pisani

American Garden at the Memorial De Caen Museum

We had a wonderful experience today at the Memorial De Caen Museum. The museum was very interesting and informative. The museum had several artifacts from both wars and even a piece of the Berlin Wall. There were several different galleries and even a movie about Normandy. Thanks to the Memorial De Caen Museum, we all have a better understanding of both World War I and World War II and a better understanding of the battle that occurred at Normandy Beach. Thank you so much.

Jewish Star Exhibit in the Memorial De Caen Museum

Honfleur

By Morgan McKenna

This afternoon we made a stop at Honfleur, a small fishing village in France. As you approach the center of town, you're greeted by a harbor which was first built for the purpose of commerce. Today it is more a "local's dock," but there is local trade just by the water's edge. The "U" shaped harbor is surrounded by restaurants and shops. Our purpose for this stop was to grab some lunch and do some exploring. Some of us dined on French cuisine while others grabbed a quick crepe before they ventured off. The village offers the traditional souvenirs but is also well known for its artisan finds. You'll find these special stores hidden up alley ways, around windy turns, and even in plain sight. There is also Carré des Arts which is an Arts Square that has a number of unique shops. Unfortunately we arrived in Honfleur just as the locals were getting ready for lunch. We found that a majority of the stores closed for a couple hours at midday but that didn't stop us from exploring to find the few stops that remained open.

Don and Mike Stand at the Port in Honfluer

A fun fact we learned on the bus was that Erik Satie, the French composer and pianist, was born in Honfleur. He was known for his impact on surrealism among other art movements and was also very eccentric. He was often seen wearing a bright purple jacket and walking his pet lobster through the streets of Paris. His home in Honfleur is now a museum dedicated to him and his career.

I would like to end this post by offering some advice for happy traveling. I've been extremely fortunate to have traveled to Europe a few times during my college career. While traveling overseas brings so much joy, knowledge, experience, and overall wonderful stories and memories, it can also bring a sense of isolation if you aren't well versed in the language and culture. While experiencing this feeling, I found ways to positively approach it.

About a year ago I studied abroad in Galway, Ireland which is very much like Honfleur. It's small, located on the coast, and well known for its fishing/seafood. I chose Galway because it reminded me of my hometown and I knew it would present me with a sense of familiarity. As we entered Honfleur, I saw the same familiarity of Galway and I knew this place would be special.

I felt comfortable with the overall feel of Honfleur, but at the same time, I was hesitant in that I speak no French and know very little about French culture. And though I knew a lot about Irish culture before I went away, I realized I felt very uncomfortable being the outsider. I didn't want to offend anyone and I didn't want to do anything that would label me as even more of a tourist than I already was. However I realize that traveling to new places means that you must push through these fears, turn them into a game if you will. Use the three French words that you know to speak with the shop owner. Show that you want to try and it'll be appreciated. You might end the conversation knowing more about the local culture and hidden spots, maybe even gaining a friend as well. When given a menu that looks as though it were written in extreme secret code, order the food you're unsure of. It might not be your favorite but you'll at least get a good story. It might even end up being the most amazing meal you've had. My point being that when uncomfortable in a new place, whether that be France or even a neighboring town where you live, try. Approach the situation with a welcoming attitude and you'll be rewarded. Finding comfort means leaving your comfort zone. The more you try, the easier it'll be to relax and actually feel at home in a new place.

Amiens Cathedral

By Christina Delcher

While driving into Amiens on Monday night, it was quite obvious that the most striking feature of the city was the Amiens Cathedral sitting right in front of our hotel. Early Tuesday morning, before our departure to Honfleur, a group of us went to this beautiful cathedral. With a combination of information from Dr. Hayse, as well as study tour participant and art teacher Concetta Stoto, everyone got a sense of the history and Gothic architecture of the building. We even participated in an interactive activity in order to get a better understanding of the structure. We all left the cathedral understanding it as a beautiful work of art.

 Standing by the Amiens Cathedral

This Roman Catholic church is the largest Gothic cathedral in France and is approximately 200,000 cubic meters. Dr. Hayse explained that the original structure was built during the Medieval Period between 1240 and 1270, but part of the building was destroyed during World War I and eventually reconstructed. It was visually captivating inside of the cathedral. From the structures and paintings to the stained-glass windows, it was truly remarkable. All of the study tour participants and assistants who went to see the cathedral today are surely able to point out a piece of Gothic architecture for the rest of our lives!

The Somme Overview and Reactions

By Karen Diemer

One hundred years after World War I (1914-1918), the effects of the Battle of the Somme can still be seen in the landscape. As our coach drove through the beautiful French countryside of Arras we could soon see how it remains scarred by the large holes left from the munitions fired during the Battle of the Somme. All along the roadside are warning signs of possible unexploded artillery shells, serving as both a warning and a reminder of how war permanently alters our world. We first visited the preserved battle field of Vimy Ridge which is along the Western Front of World War I. This was a battle between the Canadian Corps and the German Army where the Canadians captured the ridge, an important strategical advance in the war. This massive memorial was created to commemorate Canadian soldiers who died in France and who have no known grave. This monument sits on 250 acres of preserved land and it is stationed with Canadian students offering historical background. It is truly stunning.

Vimy Ridge Memorial

Our next stop was the Beaumont-Hamel Trenches. Soldiers dug trenches to protect themselves from enemy fire and large mortar attacks. These trenches were winding and complicated networks where men spent most of the war. They were higher in the back and wound through the land on angles, this was so that an enemy could not open fire and shoot a whole "row" of men. Instead there were corners and blind spots. As we walked through a series of trenches it was like being beneath the surface, and one could see how the army on the defense could have the advantage in trench warfare.

The Trenches of Beaumont-Hamel

The Lochnagar Crater is an enormous hole created by eight miles of tunnels using mine warfare. The enormity of the crater shows the violence of war and the loss of human life. At 7:28 am on July 1st, 1916 in La Boisselle, near Albert, twenty-seven tons of high explosives were detonated in two chambers in the mines killing more than six thousand men (Lochnagarcrater.com).

We came to the bottom of the valley into a new country. It was a desert of broken chalk ditches, holes, craters, mounds, and ridges, dry and overgrown weeks and all interlaced with rusty strands of wire. There was not a house nor even a ruined wall left standing there might be a spike of brickwork where the church had been or not even that, merely mounds of rubble an discolored soil, the only landmark was a high rim of white chalk some one hundred fifty yards in diameter like the crater of a volcano. It began to dawn on me that this was La Boiselle, our objective. (Lt. Charles Carrington 1916)

The Lochnager Crater

In just the last year, one hundred and twenty soldiers' bodies were found in the area. Great care is taken in identifying and honoring the soldiers. Five Bavarian soldiers were recently discovered under The Old Blighty Tea Room in La Boisselle. Another, English soldier, Sgt. Blakey, was also found and identified when the road was widened. Sgt. Blakey left an infant son who fought in World War II who is still among the missing from that war.

Dotted between these historic sites are homes and farms and the field where the Red Baron crashed on April 21,1918.

Canadian National Vimy Memorial

By Christina Delcher

*Pictures of the Vimy Memorial in France

The Canadian National Vimy Memorial is a historic site that pays tribute to all of the Canadians who risked or gave their lives during World War I.  The memorial stands on a hill on Vimy Ridge. The Battle of Vimy Ridge was a part of the greater Battle of Arras. The battle was fought by the Canadian Corps against the German Sixth Army. The Ridge became a major part of the German defense system. On April 9, 1917, the Canadian Corps stormed the Ridge and the next day captured the territory. Although over 10,000 lost their lives, this Battle was a major win for the Canadian Corps during World War I. There are over 11,000 names inscribed on the memorial that commemorate Canadians who were missing and presumed dead in France. During our visit, there was construction at the site because the 100th anniversary ceremony is on April 9th of this year and they are planning a ceremony. Right next to the memorial is a small memorial for the Algerians and Moroccans who fought in a battle in 1915. The memorial is built into a landscape that still bears the scars of the fighting in this stretch of the Western Front; the ground is churned up from the shells that exploded and the trenches that were dug over a century ago.

Somme Cemetery Sites

By Julia Berlinger

*Pictures of the grave sights of the Battle of the Somme

Today we visited several sites related to World War I and the Battle of the Somme, which was an exceedingly brutal battle occurring in 1916. On the first day of the conflict, of the 120,000 British, French, Canadian, and Newfoundlander soldiers who went "over the top," 60,000 were wounded and 20,000 were killed. With this kind of horrific loss there were a great many dead to be buried, and the battlefield is now dotted with cemeteries for the soldiers from different nations

*Our guide explaining to us the burial procedures and costs of buying the farm land

Among the sites we saw was the Neuville -St. Vaast German War Cemetery. This cemetery was established by French military authorities between 1919 and 1923 as a resting place for German war casualties from the regions north and east of Arras, France. It is the largest German World War I site in France. The cemetery is now the resting place of 59,830 German soldiers, 19,000 of which are buried beneath shrubbery that lines the cemetery. This cemetery reminded me a great deal of the Arlington National Cemetery with the rows upon rows of headstones. However, beneath most of the crosses in the cemetery in France lie, not just one person, but four soldiers, with two on either side. This cemetery was opened to the public on November 13th, 1983.

Dinner with Leo Ullman

By Casey Murphy

*Group pictures with Leo Ullman, his war family, and our study tour family

Last night we were privileged to meet the living members of Leo Ullman's war family. The members of the family that were present at the dinner were Piet and Marion van Wesemael and their children Sander, Roland, and Annemieke. Marion's family was the Hoogenboem side of the family. Mr. Ullman told us the story of his Uncle Fritz, a man who survived the Amersfoort camp during the Holocaust, but who died when he accidentally reversed his car into a canal. Leo then explained how Pete Huoogenboem saved his family, a total of 12 people. He risked his life to place Jews in homes, as well as creating fake identity and ration tickets. Leo has nominated the Hoogenboem family for the Righteous Among the Nations designation, an award given by Yad Vashem in Israel, and I can think of no better way to honor this courageous family.

Elburg with a Holocaust Survivor

Kelly Ketcham

Elburg is a historic medieval town in the Netherlands. It is filled with cobblestoned walkways and three-story brick buildings. Behind all of the town's historic beauty is the story of a young girl who survived the Holocaust. Maud Dahme was a hidden child during this time. Elburg was the last town that she was in before she was liberated by the Dutch Resistance, which led the Canadian forces into the town. Maud was hidden away from her family for three years as a little girl, and she was  stripped of her identity during this time. Maud took us around this historic town and showed us the house she was in before she was liberated.

*Maud Dahme outside of the home that she was hidden in during the war

The town now, though it is historic, is still functioning. There are Jewish symbols on certain houses that had once been owned by Jews before the war had broken out. Stumbling blocks are also placed around the town. They are small square stones that have the families' names written on them for remembrance.

Elburg, Netherlands

By Talia Zalman,

*The beautiful sights of Elburg in Holland

Today we had the opportunity to visit the Museum Sjoel Elburg. This museum is located in the village of Elburg where Maud Dahme was hidden later on in the war. Museum Sjoel Elburg is not a Holocaust museum; it is a story museum. It was created and designed to tell the story of Jewish life in Elburg. The building was once a synagogue for Jews who lived within the village. Although the museum was completely in Dutch, we were able to understand the meaning behind each display by observing the artifacts of those who once lived in Elburg. Some of the displays showed artifacts, which are used during each of the different Jewish holidays, while other columns, represented different aspects of Jewish life within the country. Above was a “Women’s gallery,” which drew attention to the role of Jewish women from Elburg. The visit to Museum Sjoel Elburg was a very interesting and fulfilling experience and it really taught us about the Jewish community that once resided in Elburg, Holland.

Vincent Van Gogh Museum

Kyle Miceli


Stockton University students had the opportunity to visit the Van Gogh Museum, which houses many of Vincent van Gogh's life work. The painter was born in Zundert, located in the southern portion of the Netherlands, in 1853. The van Gogh Museum is located in Amsterdam; this four-floor spectacle is famous for storing many of the artist's drawings and paintings prior to attending art school, as well as his pieces that he produced leading up to his death. In particular, this famous museum focuses on van Gogh's interest in self-portraits, peasant life, oil paint, and still life paintings. Exhibit information indicated that he would create a different piece of art work almost every day of the year. The Van Gogh Museum displays letters that he wrote to his family members and friends while he was in various countries, exploring his creative side. Typically these letters had accompanying audio recordings to help the audience gain a better understanding of the process that he took to either start or complete his tasks.

*One of Vincent Van Gogh's self portraits

His unique style is known for its thick brush strokes and use of color. In his letters he explained to his family members that the use of color and brush strokes would  change depending on how he was feeling from day to day. Although, van Gogh grew up with a very religious family he suffered from major depression and mental illness. Throughout his life, he lived with his parents, or his brother, Theo, would pay for his living expenses so he could follow his dream and paint. According to the museum, he completed over 700 paintings and 500 drawings during his life, many of which focused on his interest in peasant life, and the countryside that he deeply admired.

*A painting of the tree by Van Gogh

Throughout his art school career he formed relationships with Paul Gauguin, Geordes Seurat, Emily Bernard, and others who have their work displayed at this beautiful museum. Vincent van Gogh, reinterpreted some of their paintings, and added a twist with his expressive style. The museum itself would not have been formed without the efforts of his brother, Theo, who passed away six months after Vincent, and his sister-in-law, Johanna Gogh-Bonger, who kept trying to gain recognition for his artwork after his suicide. After her death in 1925, her son Vincent Willem van Gogh, began working on the project and later became the founder of the Van Gogh Museum. He dedicated his life to both his uncle, and father, and the museum by visiting almost each day until death. He donated his personal collections of van Gogh, in order to ensure that it would be shared with the world forever, and the museum was built by the Dutch state and opened on June 3, 1973. Today this museum is one of the most popular art museums in the world.

Rijksmuseum

By Morgan Vukicevich

On day three of the Study Tour, the group split up between the Van Gogh museum and the Rijksmuseum. While most of the group went to see Van Gogh's art, there were a few brave souls who went to see the famous Rembrandt paintings as well as some modern art. The Rijksmuseum was massive. There were four levels. The zeroth (or ground) floor was where we entered the museum and the gift shop was also located on that floor. Also, on the zeroth floor there was a section that was all glassware. Then the first floor included artworks made in 1700-1800 and the second floor included artworks made in 1800-1900. The third floor included artworks made in 1900-2000, which was all modern art. The famous Rembrandt, “Nightwatch” was located on the second floor. For this painting there were two security guards protecting the painting because in the 1900s the painting was slashed. For the more popular paintings, the museum had cards which gave explanations of the background of the paintings. For another Rembrandt painting the museum believed the painting may have been unfinished. They also had a radiograph done in order to see if he had painted over anything. There was actually a head that was painted over. Looking at the painting it was hard to decipher what exactly he was attempting to paint. The card helped me understand the purpose of the paintings more. Even better, there were English translations for each painting and each card. There was also an app you could download to listen to the audio descriptions that were available for certain paintings. If the Louvre is anything like this museum, I will never have enough time to fully appreciate it.

Anne Frank House

By Casey Murphy,

We had a wonderful lecture by the educators at the Anne Frank House. They informed us that the Anne Frank House was originally Otto Frank's warehouse. The Franks and others hid on the top two
floors, which were concealed by a bookcase. The educators also told us that no one has figured out how exactly the Nazis discovered the hiding place. It amazed me that after all these years, no one has discovered the reason.

* Learning about how contradicting propaganda was during the Holocaust

My favorite part of the Anne Frank house tour was learning how Maud Dahme connected with Anne Frank. She said that she hadn't learned to read until she was about eleven-years old, and when she finally did one of her first books was the Anne Frank diary in Dutch. She was elated to finally connect with another hidden child because the war period was never discussed in her household. This memory moved me.

*Group photograph before entering the Anne Frank house

By Alex Frame

Walking through the museum you are guided by Anne Frank's quotes directly from her diary. As Anne guided us through her father's business and hiding place, we were impressed by everything she was showing us. We saw the approximate layout of her father's business and after a trip behind a bookcase and up a steep stairwell we were in the annex. We were moved by seeing the exact place this Jewish family was hiding. This experience was incredible and made a lasting impression on me.

*A portion of the Anne Frank house museum

Shabbat Dinner

By Gina Irizarry

Shabbat dinner is all about the rest day for people of the Jewish religion. Today we as a group had the opportunity to join in a very special Shabbat dinner. There were many special guests there including Leo Ullman and his wife, the Rabbi with his wife Seera, Dan Kochavi and his son John, as well as Maud Dahme and Dean Robert Gregg with his wife Kim. We began the dinner with a blessing of the challa bread and wine then continued with a delicious kosher meal including matza ball soup, fish, filet mignon, and an apple tart with sherbert kiwi fruit. After dinner we danced to hlava nagila with everyone including the rabbi while the wonderful music was playing in the background. Through the Shabbat dinner we all became a community tonight and made a wonderful start to the Sabbath.

Holandische Shouwburg

By Donald Scheer,

During the time of the Nazi occupation, the Hollandische Shouwburg was originally a theatre. Many great shows were performed there and many Jewish actors took the stage. It was originally an ornate theatre with rows and stories to accommodate patrons. Beautifully decorated, it was a symbol of pride amongst the actors and patrons. During this time the city of Amsterdam kept on expanding. Because of this expansion the theatre needed to be remodeled in order to accommodate the ever-expanding number of patrons. By the time the Nazis took over the previously ornate theatre had become a much more practical theatre with straight lines and a colder more practical color.

* The memorial of the theatre that burned down

When the Nazis occupied Amsterdam  the Shouwburg became a collection point for the Jews of Amsterdam. They had to register all of their information with the Judenrat (Jewish Council) which had been set up, so that the Jews could just walk up and register at a table, after which their children were taken from them. The Dutch Judenrat wanted things to go as smoothly as possible and avoid anyone fighting back during the process. In order to do so, Jewish children were taken from their parents and held at a children's facility across the street from the Shouwburg. It was thought that if the Jews did not know where their children were, they would be more likely to comply while they were waiting to be deported from the Shouwburg to Westerbork and onwards toward the death camps, many dying in Sobibor.

* Tulips left behind in memory of those that were lost

It would sometimes take days or weeks before someone's name would be selected. The Jews suffered from a lack of food and proper facilities while they waited. But in the face of this misery there were initiatives amongst the Judenrat to save children. This was a difficult task, registration cards for a child were removed to make the child anonymous so that they could be hidden. Sometimes when registering a child instead of two children, the person registering them would write a one instead. Many children were effectively hidden. Families had been found to take the children, and as a result, a large rescue mission was accomplished.

* Maud Dahme and Leo and Kay Ullman inside of the National Holocaust Museum in the Netherlands

Today the Hollandische Shouwburg is a monument to the Jews held there to be sent to their deaths. Due to an intended purchase of the theatre, in order to make it a circus, in protest the Dutch destroyed the theatre to prevent any laughter from ever occurring in the building again. There is a monolith in the center of the open air courtyard created in the destruction of the theatre, and inside there is a wall of the family names of those sent to their deaths from the Shouwburg facing an eternal flame. Maud Dahme, who is traveling with us, was able to point out the names of her family members on the list. Upstairs a memorial museum exists with valuable information about what occurred there, and facts about the Holocaust.

Walking Tour of Historical Jewish Quarter in Amsterdam

Rebekah Sabo,

*Photographs of the Auschwitz Memorial in Amsterdam

While on our walking your of the historical Jewish Quarter in Amsterdam, we paused at the Noot Meer Auschwitz - Never Again Auschwitz - memorial. The six panels of glass represent broken, shattered mirrors. Our tour guide for the duration of the day asked our group the following question: "What do you see when you peer into the glass?" and "What do you think is this memorial's message?" Several of the students within our groups shared compelling interpretations. Ultimately, the meaning was simple; it can happen today. As you look into the broken glass you can see both your own reflection and the reflection of nature surrounding the memorial. Additionally, a small urn with ashes from Auschwitz has been relocated and buried underneath the panels of glass. This is a strong reminder regarding why we study this topic and have decided to participate on this study tour.

Leo Ulmann Presentation

By Cynthia Rugerio

*Leo Ullman presenting on his family's story

Our afternoon session with Leo Ulmann included an introduction to the Jewish Historical Museum by General Director, Dr. Emile Schrijver, and Curator of Cultural History, Julie-Marthe Cohen. After Dr. Schrijver greeted us, Curator Cohen presented a brief overview of her work in recovering art and artifacts lost during the Holocaust, tracing the pieces to their prior owners and addressing preservation issues.

Following her presentation, Leo told the story of his life as a hidden child in Amsterdam for 796 Days. Leo recounted the difficult choices that his parents faced following their decision to return to Holland after Hitler invaded Czechoslovakia. They struggled to place Leo in hiding and then were forced to go into hiding themselves. Leo then recounted, in a warm and personal fashion, how his "war parents," Oma and Opa Schimmel, cared for him while he was in hiding. He told us of his "war brother," Bus, and we were fortunate to meet Bus's widow, Willi Schimmel. Leo also spoke of the challenges of reuniting with his parents after nearly three years with his war family. In response to questions from our group, he again mentioned his deep ties to the Schimmels, including his life-long relationship with their dog, "Ruffie," who the Schimmels allowed him to keep after her returned to his parents.

The Jewish Historical Museum

Amanda Romeiser


The Jewish Historical Museum first opened in 1932. When the Nazis occupied the Netherlands during World War II, the museum was closed and a lot of its collection was lost or destroyed. The museum reopened in 1955, but in 1987 it moved to its current location in the three Ashkenazi synagogues close to the Portuguese Synagogue. This is a museum of Amsterdam's Jewish culture and the religion's holy days.

*An exhibit on the circumcision of young Jewish boys

Many of the objects in the museum really caught my eye. They were really beautiful! I have never been so engrossed by so much beauty and culture in one place. One of the holidays that I read a lot about was Purim, which is coming this Sunday. It is a feast to celebrate the escape of the Jews of Persia. They are similar to the Jews who fled Nazi Germany, but they succeeded in fleeing for their lives. It is interesting to me how the timing of this Holocaust study tour aligned with the Purim. The Purim holiday and the Holocaust have many things in common. Both are important events that need to be remembered.

*John looking at an ancient Torah

Leo Ullman, one of the survivors with whom we are traveling, has personal connections to this museum. His parents were married in one of the synagogues before it became part of the museum. It was a very powerful to experience to be part of someone's history and to hear from him in person. I am looking forward to more experiences such as these on this trip.